Despite the unseasonably warm temperatures at the very beginning of November, we still have to face the chore of fall clean up and winter preparation.

One of the primary chores is, of course, trying to save as many of your favorite plants as you can. With some luck and good conditions many plants or cuttings can be wintered over. Take cuttings of your favorite coleus and geraniums. You can try other annuals such as Persian sword and plectranthus too. You take a cutting on a vigorously growing shoot about 3 or 4 inches down. Cut on an angle and then you dip the tip in root tone (rooting hormone) and then pot. See suggestions that follow. Another method is to place it in a glass with water and see if it will root that way. If I have favorite plants, I try both ways. Watch carefully to see if roots start and then transfer cuttings to a small pot (3 or 4 inches wide maximum). I use vermiculite and perlite in the bottom and potting soil with growing medium near the top. This is to promote good drainage, the biggest problem with cuttings. Then place the potted cutting under growing lights if possible, or in a window that faces south. Water when it appears dry and the container feels light when lifted.

Another way to winter over favorite plants is to bring them in lock, stock and barrel. I have favorite tropical plants such as plumbago, diplodenia, hibiscus and bouganvillea that I bring in from their summer vacation. I trim back the plants about 1/3 and try to make my cut above a node so growth will be encouraged later on. If possible, I repot with fresh soil. I then spray with hot pepper wax (organic, Hot Pepper Wax Co.) for all the “wee beasties” who have moved in during the summer. You can use any spray made for house plant insect control. Repeat this application after 3 days or so and check vigilantly for infestations. Try to approximate growing conditions for these plants with moist conditions and appropriate light exposure.

Other plants that can be considered as tender perennials such as geraniums, agapanthus and brugmansia (angel’s trumpets) can be allowed to go dormant. Place in a garage or basement area and stop watering. Cut back the brugmansia about 2/3. Store these plants in a sunless area that will not go below 40 degrees or so. In the early spring, begin watering and bring into the light. Geraniums actually begin to show bits of green when they are ready. This seems to work most of the time. My success rate is about 50 %. Another gardener also stores geraniums bare rooted in paper bags in the basement. I tried this last year and it worked for about 50% of the plants. When I checked the bags in March, I was amazed to see green showing. I cut them back, potted them, watered and gave them light and had my favorites back again. Try it; nothing ventured, nothing gained.

This is the time to bring in your tuber and bulb plants such as colocasia (elephant’s ears), caladiums, cannas, gladiolas and dahlias. Remove them from the ground, shake off as much soil as you can and if possible, let them dry for several days in the sun. Then place them in paper bags with wood shavings, peat moss, vermiculite or perlite. Label the bags carefully as to color and size and include an already printed marker. Then store in a dry, cool spot for next year.

Clean up those beds as well as you can. You can remove dead annuals, vegetable plants, etc. and weeds. I usually discard these because I worry about contamination from these plants although I know many people compost these with success. I cover bare areas with grass clippings and twice mowed leaves. This performs a double service. The organic matter decomposes to some extent and it forms a barrier for weeds until you are ready to plant in the spring. It is a good idea to cover perennials with a light mulch after the dead stalks have been cut down. If you mulch with hay, only use salt hay because other types of hay are filled with seeds and mice like to nest there.

Lawns need to be kept as free as possible of leaves so the roots can work down deeply into the soil. It is recommended that you do NOT fertilize until the end of the month after the ground is at least partly frozen unless you really love mowing your lawn. This prevents new growth that is superficial and allows the fertilizer to be absorbed gradually with freezing, thawing and winter snows. This follows nature’s natural cycle. You will not have to fertilize in the spring if you can be patient. Wait for the rains and Mother Nature to do her thing. This is always a good idea.

If you like Amaryllis, now is a good time to buy some and start them indoors for Christmas gifts or holiday decoration. Follow the directions given at purchase. Bulbs take from 6 to 10 weeks to flower.

Gardens by Judy,
---- Have your garden questions answered by Judy. Questions and answers will be included in the monthly column. Send an e-mail to: gardensbyjudy@townedigest.com

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About the author: Judy is a certified Master Gardener with Cornell Cooperative Extension who loves sharing the joys of gardening with others. She helps garden hobbyists solve their problems and is happy to provide information and suggestions about garden planning and maintenance.

Gardens by Judy prides itself in helping the home owner and garden enthusiast plan and maintain that special garden. Judy works cooperatively with the gardener. She evaluates each garden visited and consults with the gardener about his/her goals. She helps in the design of new gardens and in the re-creation and improvement of present gardens. Judy also creates beautiful container gardens to enhance decks, porches and landscapes.