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A rose is a rose is a rose….but so beautiful. With apologies to the poet Gertrude Stein, the rose has always been regarded as the supreme flower. Shakespeare says in Romeo and Juliet that “a rose by any other name would smell as sweet,” referring to the last names of the warring families in that tragedy. Roses are all of these things and are certainly worth the time and special attention they require. The gardener just needs to have some basic information to be a successful rose grower.
Here are some general guidelines. Roses are hardy plants but have a few basic requirements to consider before you plant. Roses need at least 4 to 6 hours of sun. Check this carefully and don’t guess. Notice the time the sun hits the area you are thinking of using and the time it leaves. Roses prefer rich, loamy soil. You should take care before planting to turn the soil over to about 10 inches and add compost, and perhaps a combination of humus and top soil. The ground has to have good drainage because roses cannot be planted in wet areas, even during the winter when they are dormant. Roses also need their own space so allow enough room for them to grow. This does not mean that they must be isolated, but that no other plant enfringes on the growing area.
Planting is an important step for any flower or shrub. If you are planting bare root roses, follow the directions on the label. This usually calls for soaking the roses in water before planting. If the rose is already potted, make sure that it is adequately watered while you are waiting to plant it. The next steps are similar. Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches wide. Make sure that it is wide enough to allow the plant’s root system to develop easily. If the rose is potted, plant at the depth of the soil it is in. Work in compost or good organic material, about one part organic material to 2 parts soil. If I am planting a potted plant, I use a handful of a product called Healthy Start and a tablespoon of Epsom salts at the bottom of the hole and water in gently. If you don’t have Healthy Start, you can use Electra or a tablespoon of 5-10-5. Place the potted plant in the hole and gently loosen any roots that may be matted around the circumference. Gently fill the remaining area with soil and tamp it down lightly to remove any air pockets. Form a saucer like depression around the circumference of the rose and water gently. If you have a bare rooted plant, build a mound of soil in the hole to support the roots and to hold the plant at the proper height, with the bud union (the rounded area at the base of the canes) at ground level. Holding the plant firmly in place, fill the hole 2/3 full of soil and tamp down lightly. Fill with water and let soak in, then fill the hole with soil and firm gently. Form the saucer like depression around the base of the plant and water gently. Jackson and Perkins recommends misting bare canes with water to get them started. Rose fertilizer from Espoma or another manufacturer and a tablespoon of Epsom salts can be placed in this saucer like depression after a week or so if the plant looks like it is doing well. Epsom salt is magnesium and stimulates new growth by assisting in the metabolic process. This combination should be used on established roses in monthly feedings starting in May and ending before September first.
Check roses daily. Water from below if possible and if not, make sure watering is done early in the day so leaves have time to dry and prevent fungus. Remove any canes that may be broken or crossing another cane. Remove any canes that are less than pencil size in thickness. When your roses bloom, cut stems to bring into the house and enjoy, making sure that you cut on a 45 degree angle and above a grouping of 5 leaves. Remove any dead roses in the same manner. Be sure to mulch roses after they are established, but make sure that the saucer area remains open for easy feeding and gentle cultivation. Remove any debris under roses. Spent leaves or diseased leaves on plant should be removed and discarded. Do not add to compost piles. Any problems with black spot, mildew etc. can be referred to the American Rose Society, P.O.Box 30,000, Shreveport,LA 71130 or a rose supplier like Star Roses at www.starroses.com. Cornell Cooperative has information lines open Monday to Friday, 9-12, at (631) 581-4223 and (631) 727-4126.
There are many varieties and styles of roses from which to choose. There are carpet roses which form low mounds, although mine are now about 3 ft. by 3 ft. These require no special care except for normal maintenance thus far and reward me with blooms throughout the summer. There are miniature roses which would suit a patios setting or can be used in pots. The floribunda is the second largest class of roses. They are lower-growing than hybrid teas, and bloom heavily, producing clusters of flowers from June until frost. Rugosas are similar to native roses and are vigorous, hardy. Hybrid Tea roses are the most popular type of rose. They are generally tall and stately, with large well-formed blooms and long stems suitable for cutting. They can be used alone or in a bed with other roses or flowers. Grandifloras are as tall as hybrid teas, with the same form, but bloom in clusters on shorter stems. They create a mass of color in the landscape and are also great for cutting. Climbers are vigorous and easy to grow, adding drama and interest to your landscape. They need a trellis or fence to grow on. There are also Antique Roses which are casual in form and add historical interest as well as English roses popularized by David Austin. Think about your special space and interest and there is surely a rose for you by any name.
Happy gardening!!!!
Gardens
by Judy,
If you have
any remedies or products that have worked for you, and that you
would like to share, email me at gardensbyjudy@townedigest.com
Have your garden questions answered by Judy. Questions and answers
will be included in the monthly column. Send an e-mail to:
gardensbyjudy@townedigest.com
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Garden and landscape evaluations, personalized garden services,
creative garden plans, containers planted on site to your specifications.
About the
author: Judy is a certified Master Gardener with Cornell Cooperative
Extension who loves sharing the joys of gardening with others. She
helps garden hobbyists solve their problems and is happy to provide
information and suggestions about garden planning and maintenance.
Gardens by
Judy prides itself in helping the home owner and garden enthusiast
plan and maintain that special garden. Judy works cooperatively
with the gardener. She evaluates each garden visited and consults
with the gardener about his/her goals. She helps in the design of
new gardens and in the re-creation and improvement of present gardens.
Judy also creates beautiful container gardens to enhance decks,
porches and landscapes.
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